{"id":5298,"date":"2016-12-20T20:00:38","date_gmt":"2016-12-20T20:00:38","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/garfnet.org.uk\/cms\/?p=5298"},"modified":"2026-03-04T20:38:55","modified_gmt":"2026-03-04T20:38:55","slug":"converting-inexpensive-led-flood-lights-for-use-in-the-studio","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/garfnet.org.uk\/cms\/2016\/12\/20\/converting-inexpensive-led-flood-lights-for-use-in-the-studio\/","title":{"rendered":"Converting inexpensive LED flood lights for use in the studio."},"content":{"rendered":"<p><strong>This is how I converted three left-over cheapie (\u00a360 for a box of ten, delivered) 20 watt daylight LED flood lights for use in the studio.<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>The basic tools you need:-<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Vernier or digital caliper,<\/li>\n<li>M10 ISO metric taps.<\/li>\n<li>Suitable spanner (17mm AF).<\/li>\n<li>Bench vice.<\/li>\n<li>Electrician&#8217;s screwdriver and wire strippers, to make the electrical connections.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>Every LED floodlight unit will need:-<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Suitable socket to fit on standard 16mm studio lighting spigots.<\/li>\n<li>M10 ISO metric bolt.<\/li>\n<li>Some form of electrical connection or junction box.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<figure style=\"width: 900px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/garfnet.org.uk\/cms\/wp-content\/gallery\/20161219-led-floodlight-conversion\/20161219-p1790429-tools.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/garfnet.org.uk\/cms\/wp-content\/gallery\/20161219-led-floodlight-conversion\/20161219-p1790429-tools.jpg\" alt=\"The tools you will need\" width=\"900\" height=\"675\"><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">The tools you will need<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Firstly, I found some nice solid aluminium 16mm studio lighting type sockets. These came fitted to some cheap scenery holders (\u00a32 each on eBay) . It was cheaper to purchase them this way than to purchase the sockets separately.<\/p>\n<figure style=\"width: 900px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/garfnet.org.uk\/cms\/wp-content\/gallery\/20161219-led-floodlight-conversion\/20161219-p1790363-original-clamp.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/garfnet.org.uk\/cms\/wp-content\/gallery\/20161219-led-floodlight-conversion\/20161219-p1790363-original-clamp.jpg\" alt=\"Solid aluminium 16mm studio lighting type sockets to ift on 16mm studio lighting spigots.\" width=\"900\" height=\"1536\"><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Solid aluminium 16mm studio lighting type sockets to ift on 16mm studio lighting spigots.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>I removed the plastic part of the scenery holders and binned them. Then I tapped M10 x 1.5mm threads into the small-ends of the remaining aluminium sockets.<\/p>\n<figure style=\"width: 900px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/garfnet.org.uk\/cms\/wp-content\/gallery\/20161219-led-floodlight-conversion\/20161219-p1790364-cutting-thread.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/garfnet.org.uk\/cms\/wp-content\/gallery\/20161219-led-floodlight-conversion\/20161219-p1790364-cutting-thread.jpg\" alt=\"Tapping an M10 metric thread in the base of the socket\" width=\"900\" height=\"1656\"><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Tapping an M10 metric thread in the base of the socket<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>I also tapped M10 threads into the lamps&#8217; mounting brackets. This thread effectively acts as a &#8220;captive&#8221; lock-nut and prevents the bolt from working loose.<\/p>\n<figure style=\"width: 900px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/garfnet.org.uk\/cms\/wp-content\/gallery\/20161219-led-floodlight-conversion\/20161219-p1790401-tapping-thread-in-bracket.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/garfnet.org.uk\/cms\/wp-content\/gallery\/20161219-led-floodlight-conversion\/20161219-p1790401-tapping-thread-in-bracket.jpg\" alt=\"Tapping an M10 metric thread in the lamp bracket\" width=\"900\" height=\"1536\"><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Tapping an M10 metric thread in the lamp bracket<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>I then used some left-over M10 x 25mm stainless steel bolts to bolt the tapped spigot sockets to the tapped lamp bracket.<\/p>\n<figure style=\"width: 900px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/garfnet.org.uk\/cms\/wp-content\/gallery\/20161219-led-floodlight-conversion\/20161219-p1790404-bolt-threaded-into-bracket.jpg\" alt=\"Stainless steel M10 bolt screwed into bracket.\" width=\"900\" height=\"1366\"><figcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Stainless steel M10 bolt screwed into bracket.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Then I needed to make some sort of electrical connection. There are various ways to do this. I chose rewirable three-pin IEC 60320 C14 male connectors. The connecting cords on these units were only about 30cm long. Normally this connection would go into a junction box. But I wanted to make these units compatible with my other studio kit. My studio flash heads have standard detachable IEC 60320-C13 female PC-type leads, that connect the units to the mains. In fact, all my fixed 16mm-spigot lighting mounts and booms are equipped with compatible IEC 60320-C13 leads. So it made sense to use compatible IEC connections on these units too.<\/p>\n<figure style=\"width: 900px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/garfnet.org.uk\/cms\/wp-content\/gallery\/20161219-led-floodlight-conversion\/20161219-p1790435-completed-units.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/garfnet.org.uk\/cms\/wp-content\/gallery\/20161219-led-floodlight-conversion\/20161219-p1790435-completed-units.jpg\" alt=\"Tow converted lamps complete with IEC 60320 plugs.\" width=\"900\" height=\"1366\"><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Two converted lamps complete with IEC 60320 plugs.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Then I cleaned-away all the dust and swarf, and fitted the modified units to the 16mm spigots on my studio booms. Finally, I connected the units to mains and enjoyed a jolly good play&#8230;<\/p>\n<figure style=\"width: 900px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/waist.it\/wp-content\/gallery\/about-studio\/20161219-p1790458-unit-in-use.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/waist.it\/wp-content\/gallery\/about-studio\/20161219-p1790458-unit-in-use.jpg\" alt=\"Converted lamp fitted on standard studio lighting boom.\" width=\"900\" height=\"1500\"><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Converted lamp fitted on standard studio lighting boom.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Granted, it is a bit of&nbsp; of a hassle making the studio brollies fit. I am working on a better solution for this than the one shown below.&nbsp; However,&nbsp; for the time being, I have committed a&nbsp; little bodge, consisting of an M6 x 25mm stainless steel bolt, two 6mm x 25mm stainless &#8220;penny&#8221; washers and an M6 &#8220;NyLock&#8221; stainless steel nut. The brolly tube slides in snugly between the two 25mm penny washers. It is somewhat inelegant, but thus far it has proven&nbsp; perfectly adequate.<\/p>\n<p>More importantly, if you scroll down a little, then you can see the very convenient IEC 60320 electrical connection too. My modified LED floodlight is powered by the same mains lead that I normally use for my studio flash.<\/p>\n<figure style=\"width: 900px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/garfnet.org.uk\/cms\/wp-content\/gallery\/20161219-led-floodlight-conversion\/20161219-p1790497-unit-in-use.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/garfnet.org.uk\/cms\/wp-content\/gallery\/20161219-led-floodlight-conversion\/20161219-p1790497-unit-in-use.jpg\" alt=\"Converted lamp fitted on standard studio lighting boom, c\/w a crude but effecting brolly mount.\" width=\"900\" height=\"2048\"><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Converted lamp fitted on standard studio lighting boom, c\/w a crude but effecting brolly mount.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>In order to test my new budget-priced continuous lighting, here is a&nbsp; a snap of my trusty metric tap-and-die set. I chose this because one of the advantages of continuous lighting becomes apparent when one is taking pictures of small shiny things. It&#8217;s very hard to read the numbers on tools such as this when using studio flash. But these LED lamps are nigh-on perfect for the task, because you can move them around in real time to eliminate the glare. This was quite literally <em>pin-it-up<\/em> then <em>point-and-shoot<\/em>&#8230;<\/p>\n<figure style=\"width: 900px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/garfnet.org.uk\/cms\/wp-content\/gallery\/20161219-led-floodlight-conversion\/20161219-p1790525-test-shot.jpg\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" src=\"https:\/\/garfnet.org.uk\/cms\/wp-content\/gallery\/20161219-led-floodlight-conversion\/20161219-p1790525-test-shot.jpg\" alt=\"Photo taken using new lights.\" width=\"900\" height=\"1536\"><\/a><figcaption class=\"wp-caption-text\">Photo taken using new lights.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<hr>\n<h3>Disclaimers<\/h3>\n<ul>\n<li><i>It is your responsibility to ensure your studio\/work area is safe. <\/i><\/li>\n<li><i>If you are making any electrical connections then you should consult a qualified electrician.<br \/>\n<\/i><\/li>\n<li><i>In the UK, the other end of the IEC lead should be fitted with a BS1363A plug and a fuse of a suitable current value for the cable&#8217;s current rating, usually 3 or 5 amp.<br \/>\n<\/i><\/li>\n<li><em>Eye protection should be worn when drilling or tapping metals.<\/em><\/li>\n<li><i>I have no relationship with either the supplier or manufacturer of the units described above. <\/i><\/li>\n<li><i>This is just one type of daylight LED currently on the market. Other types are available and may or may not be more suited to your needs. <\/i><\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>This is how I converted three left-over cheapie (\u00a360 for a box of ten, delivered) 20 watt daylight LED flood lights for use in the studio. The basic tools you need:- Vernier or digital caliper, M10 ISO metric taps. Suitable spanner (17mm AF). Bench vice. Electrician&#8217;s screwdriver and wire strippers, to make the electrical connections&#8230;.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":5327,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"ngg_post_thumbnail":0,"_kad_post_transparent":"default","_kad_post_title":"default","_kad_post_layout":"default","_kad_post_sidebar_id":"","_kad_post_content_style":"default","_kad_post_vertical_padding":"default","_kad_post_feature":"","_kad_post_feature_position":"","_kad_post_header":false,"_kad_post_footer":false,"_kad_post_classname":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[1623,6,1634,1633,680,752,18],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-5298","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-digital-photography","category-journal","category-photographic-led","category-photographic-lighting","category-photography","category-studio","category-technology"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.4 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>Converting inexpensive LED flood lights for use in the studio. - GarfNet<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/garfnet.org.uk\/cms\/2016\/12\/20\/converting-inexpensive-led-flood-lights-for-use-in-the-studio\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_GB\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Converting inexpensive LED flood lights for use in the studio. - GarfNet\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"This is how I converted three left-over cheapie (\u00a360 for a box of ten, delivered) 20 watt daylight LED flood lights for use in the studio. 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The basic tools you need:- Vernier or digital caliper, M10 ISO metric taps. Suitable spanner (17mm AF). Bench vice. 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